As promised in my Letchworth post, here are some pics of the changes I've made to the exterior since October:Mostly magnets here, strategically placed to cover rust spots, dings, pits, & my crude woodchuck bodywork.
Even the bumper stickers are mostly magnets, bought on line from Stamp & Shout.
Sherrie bought me the peace sign magnets you can see in the Letchworth pics, & they were followed shortly in the mail by the first batch of flower magnets.
Another batch of flowers arrived with Santa, as did Underdog, & the Herbie (53) stickers.
All this "graphic blandishment" has 3 goals:
1. To "doctor up" chips, dings, & rust spots.
2. To awe fellow motorists with way cool stuff, making them less angry about my speed.
3. To advance my subversive political agenda.
ARE YOU LISTENING, GEORGE????
Enjoy!
4 comments:
Hello!
Can you please help me by telling me where you got the majority of your brake parts...All parts for your 71' bus.
I too have a 71' but it's a camper bus. I find most parts here and there online, but I find that a lot of 71' parts are hard to come by. Especially your brake servo!!
Best Regards!
Andrew Jones
ankjones@gmail.com
Hi, Andrew,
I got my replacement booster from Bus Depot. Here's the link:http://www.busdepot.com/details.jsp?partnumber=211612103X
I get most of my other parts there. too. The booster's not cheap, but the difference in stopping power is huge.
I wouldn't drive without one now.
Well worth the cost.
Richard
I have 71 camper too, but there is no breaking power, so they originally have servo, but this one (booster) is better ? how hard is it to replace it? thank you
my bus has turbo diesel jetta engine, so I really need brakes :)
Hi, Stelka,
'71 is the first year for power disc brakes, at least on U.S. type II's. I recently put a new servo on mine, & it wasn't too difficult.
If I remember correctly, I was able to disconnect the line that runs from the proportioning valve to the master cylinder so I could unbolt the MC from the servo (2 nuts) & gently push it out of the way. Try not to disturb the clear vinyl hoses that connect to the lower brake resevoir. It's a good idea to have a set of replacement seals (Part #211-611-833-C) for those hoses in case they start to leak. I bought a set of 4 just in case, but I only had to replace the bottom ones.
Next, I disconnected the vent hose on top of the servo, and then the vacuum hose from the back of the servo. With the MC and the hoses off, the servo can be removed from its mounting bracket by removing 4 nuts,on the back side. If you have the later, larger servo, it may take some wrestling to get past the emergency brake cable, but it will go.
The servo needs a vacuum supply from the engine to function. You'll need to find the vacuum hose in the engine compartment that went to the original engine's intake manifold. Make sure it has a functional check valve in it that will allow flow in the direction of the servo, but not the other way. A new check valve is cheap insurance considering how expensive servos are. I had a brand-new servo go bad in a year's time because a bad check valve let vapors migrate down the tube & damage the diaphragm inside the servo. One of those painful lessons!
You'll have to make sure the hose is connected to the intake manifold on your engine, and that the hose & tube that run under the Bus have no leaks. The hose that runs from the tube to the servo in the front of the Bus must be secure & leak-free, too. The Bently manual for the late type II's has good pictures.
If you have a good servo, connected to the intake manifold with a good check valve, and your hoses & tubes are free of leaks, your power brakes should work, provided that your engine & intake manifold setup makes enough vacuum to power them.
If you get rough running or a large change in idle speed when you step on the brakes, then you're losing vacuum somewhere in the system, due either to leaks in the hoses & front-to-back tube,a bad check valve, or a bad servo.
When you re-connect the MC and the line to the proportioning valve, you'll have to bleed the system, starting with the valve, and then moving to the wheels.
Any problems that you might have with the hydraulic system, or with the pads/rotors/shos/drums, will also cause braking problems, even if the servo is good.
Hope this helps,
Richard
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